Review by Sarah Mower
A monsoon-like downpour fell on a steamy London as Erdem Moralioglu was shooting his resort collection onGuinevere van Seenus in his studio last week. Just the weather for looking at one of his great raincoats, then: a half-houndstooth Linton tweed, half-waterproof cinched trench. It’s a variation on the rainwear he had going a few seasons ago, now back by popular demand, and calculated to be delivered “at that time when fall’s just about to come—but you’re not ready for it yet.” Moralioglu searched around for a label to define this collection and came up with “Slightly Hitchcockian.” It’s an allusion you can see if you narrow your eyes, evident in the shapely, nipped-waist tweed-and-lace dresses (which have nude linings in powernet). But really, the breadth and offhand assuredness of this line-up is simply Very Erdem: evidence of a young designer in his groove, confidently turning out colorful, pretty, happy clothes that hit many spots in the wardrobe.
What his women know (and their numbers are exponentially growing: this boy sells in 30 countries now) is that Erdem is as good at an early evening party dress, perhaps with an asymmetric crepe drape over a lace sheath, as he is at the long, languid, easy-to-wear but completely event-ready gown. Toward Christmas, there’s going to be fierce competition in that latter category. The winner? Without a doubt: she who gets her hands on the fluted dove-gray dress with the navy lace top. It’s not just the way the sprigs of flowered lace are cut out and re-embroidered at the waist—it’s the trailing drape from the shoulder Erdem put in the back: a silhouette which instantly makes a modern girl stand like a thirties siren.
Photos: Boo George/Courtesy of Erdem