Associated Press
PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier was the fox in the proverbial hen-house, serving up a feather-filled and plumage-plastered fall-winter 2011-12 haute couture collection on Wednesday.
Every conceivable bird was there. Rooster, ostrich, swan, turkey and pheasant feathers peeked out from the hemlines of trench coats and fluttered out from beneath the necklines of bustiers and other Gaultier staples. And even when they weren’t visible from the outside, the feathers were there on the inside, stuffing the puffer jackets and A-line skirts made from down-filled duvets.
A cropped leather jacket was entirely embroidered with black rooster’s feathers that gleamed darkly, like an oil slick. A model appeared to be transforming, “Black Swan”-style, into a macaw, her bustier an explosion of feathers in saturated tropical shades.
In a nod to the blockbuster movie, Gaultier paired tutus with his signature pinstriped suits and sent out high heels that looked like satin pointe shoes with a metal platform to hike up the heel.
Gaultier has a prodigious imagination, and his creativity can sometimes get the upper hand and overshadow the clothes themselves, but Wednesday’s collection hit the sweet spot between fancy and rigor.
Every conceivable bird was there. Rooster, ostrich, swan, turkey and pheasant feathers peeked out from the hemlines of trench coats and fluttered out from beneath the necklines of bustiers and other Gaultier staples. And even when they weren’t visible from the outside, the feathers were there on the inside, stuffing the puffer jackets and A-line skirts made from down-filled duvets.
A cropped leather jacket was entirely embroidered with black rooster’s feathers that gleamed darkly, like an oil slick. A model appeared to be transforming, “Black Swan”-style, into a macaw, her bustier an explosion of feathers in saturated tropical shades.
In a nod to the blockbuster movie, Gaultier paired tutus with his signature pinstriped suits and sent out high heels that looked like satin pointe shoes with a metal platform to hike up the heel.
Gaultier has a prodigious imagination, and his creativity can sometimes get the upper hand and overshadow the clothes themselves, but Wednesday’s collection hit the sweet spot between fancy and rigor.
In a nod to his new perfume — a men’s scent called “Kokorico” or cock-a-doodle-doo in French — Gaultier put men onto the catwalk, which in couture shows is normally ladies-only territory. Lanky male models tuxedos with pointy patent leather heels shared the catwalk with buff boys in duvet skirts.
“I never really saw myself in a dress before,” said Rob Evans, a boxer-turned-model with a square jaw and epic shoulders. “Coming from boxing, I’m more about testosterone and locker rooms and I’m generally not all that in touch with my feminine side.”
At the end of the show, Gaultier, looking smart in a long-tailed tux, raced to the end of the catwalk and then ran on, down the stairs, out the door and up the street to a nearby theater, where cancan girls and gyrating boys armed with oversized feather-dusters feted the launch of “Kokorico.”
Here's a selection of looks from the runway. You can find the full collection here.
I love this collection. The men are a bit much but the details are exquisiteness!
ReplyDeleteI don't really like this collection, but I'm going to need to sleep on it. When the shows were live, I screenshotted all the looks, but then high quality pics were posted so all I've done ALL DAY is delete the pics I so laboriously screen-capped, and reupload the better pics. And I'm cranky, my apartment smells feral, and it's too bloody hot for life. rarr.
ReplyDeleteThere are some pieces that I just love. I particularly like the long, slender robe-like gowns like the one worn by Karlie.
ReplyDeleteAndrej is in it!! I love him
ReplyDeleteHe looks so good dressed as a man!
ReplyDeleteHe does. He is so perfect.
ReplyDelete